The river separates the two distinct halves of the Hungarian capital: older Buda, on the hilly west, has retained its cobbled streets and medieval architecture, while more modern Pest, on the flatter east, has grand boulevards and a feel of the belle epoque. There is no finer introduction to Budapest than to walk along the great blue river that runs through it. Winding through the Hungarian capital on its way from Germany to the Black Sea, the Danube connects many of the city's major sights.
On your first day, keep to the Pest side and start the morning at the 19th-century Great Market Hall. Pick up local delicacies such as paprika, black truffles or Hungarian wine at one of the stalls beneath its neo-Gothic ceiling, before heading north along the river. Budapest is celebrated for its grand cafes, which first drew intellectuals, artists and writers to discuss the matters of the day in the 19th century. Afterwards, continue north along the river to take a tour of the ornate Hungarian Parliament Building.
The gilded, frescoed Grand Staircase is a particular highlight. To see the Parliament Building at its most attractive β floodlit and golden at night, its reflection twinkling in the water β have your concierge book a sunset cruise along the Danube, and spend an hour meandering upstream, cocktail in hand.
The best hotels in the city are in Pest, within walking distance of the piers from which the boats leave. Try the Hotel Dorothea, Budapest, Autograph Collection with its sleek, modern rooms; the uniquely elegant Matild Palace, A Luxury Collection Hotel ; W Budapest , for bold styling combined with heritage features, and a peerless location opposite the city's opera house; the contemporary sophistication of The Ritz-Carlton, Budapest ; or the Budapest Marriott Hotel , which offers beautiful views over the Danube.
Your second day is devoted to discovering the unique, higher-altitude charms of the Danube's Buda side. At the other end, a vintage wooden funicular with neat gold trim brings you to the top of the Castle District in just over 90 seconds.
