Yes, everything was better in this mythical past we never knew. Where are the good bars? And I live in New York, where bars mean something. I can take it from there. The whole point of being in a bar is to escape the news! What about the company? A bar should have regulars and a feeling of easygoing, unstated fellowship. The world moves fast, and here we are to take a moment or two to regroup with others doing the same.
These days, you sit next to people taking pictures of martinis getting warm. A line out the door reassures them that the Instagram photo is worth the wait. Restaurant wine lists are deep, global, and downright adventuresome. Great wine stores are everywhere.
And yet the quality of our bars has not kept pace. How can you tell? Well, one sign is that people haul out their computer as if a bar were a coworking office the rest of the patrons had yet to learn about. Any place where people are on their computer ceases to be an attractive setting. Nobody goes to a bar to hear somebody discussing ROI over Zoom.
Humphrey Smith, owner of a string of pubs in London, has decreed that no laptops are allowed in his establishments. In addition: no music, no televisions, and, for good measure, no swearing. The civilized sound of quiet conversation, encouraged with beer and spirits. The decline of good bars has, I believe, led to the renewed popularity of private member clubs, where you can actually speak in measured tones and the best gossip should be trafficked in close confidence. At bars and restaurants, there are bad acoustics and worse music.
People must scream to make themselves heard. Good grief. I realize I sound like my grandfather—these kids with their TikToks! Complaining about loud bars certainly ages me.
