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The explanation was that Pinya is a chueta, the name in Mallorca for about 20 people whose Jewish ancestors converted to Christianity centuries ago during the Spanish Inquisition. Devoutly Catholic but widely distrusted by fellow Christians, chuetas ironically retained their distinct identity because hostility to them forced them to marry mostly among themselves. Last year, Pinya, a chef, and Miquel Segura became the first two chuetas elected to the four-person executive board of the Jewish Community of Mallorca, finally giving representatives from that minority a place at the communal table.
The couple are among several dozen people from that group who have returned to Judaism in recent years. Most chuetas today do not consider themselves Jews. Pinya, whose parents were forced to marry in secrecy because his non-chueta grandparents opposed the union, and Bat Valls underwent an orthodox conversion to Judaism about five years ago.
Other chuetas, like the sculptor Ferran Aguilo, had a reform conversion. Following resistance to the plaque by some residents and municipal leaders, the unveiling was the first recognition of its sort of the murders that transpired here. In , the city helped build a tiny Jewish museum in what used to be the Jewish quarter. Located on a cobbled street inside the sandstone labyrinth that is the old city centre, the surrounding alleys are so quiet and well preserved that it is easy to imagine life here centuries ago, when crypto-Jews ran virtually all of the tanneries, shoe shops, and butcher shops.
The Jews are gone, but the buildings that once housed their three synagogues in Palma are still around and in good condition.
One of them, a small space with two entrances for security reasons, used to be a bakery. Another is a church. Last month, the city for the first time sponsored a memorial ceremony for Jews who in tried to escape the island on a ship, but were caught and tortured. The ring is smooth because chuetas touch it whenever they walk past, as many Catholics in Europe do to statues of saints.